Athens: The ruins

The Acropolis of Athens is literally an ancient fortress protecting the city of Athens. It was built in the fifth century BC. It’s breathtaking.

아크로폴리스는 아테네를 보호하는 성곽으로 이루어져 있다. 책으로만 보던 파르테논을 본거여서 올라갈때까지, 그 앞에 설때까지 입을 계속 벌리고 있었던것 같다. 버스에서 자기소개를 하는데 거의 막내였던 시절이라 “파르테논을 보고 눈물을 흘릴 뻔 했습니다”라고 말한 기억. 그 정도로 첫 유럽여행은 꽤나 감동적이었다.

The Parthenon is a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena, who is the patron deity of the city Athens. Some interesting facts:

• construction of the Parthenon started 447 BC and it took nine years to finish. The sculptural decorations took another 10 years to complete.
• the word Parthenon literally means “of the maidens.”
• the building and decorative sculptures are known to be the best in Greek art.
• it has suffered from fire, war, looting and revolution, the most current being the 1687 looting incident.
• it is archaeoastronomically aligned to the Hyades star clusters. WHAT.
• like many Greek temples, it was used as a treasury.

도시 아테네의 수호신 아테나를 위해 만들어진 신전 파르테논. 기원전 5세기경에 세워졌고 신전자체는 9년이 걸렸지만 주변 장식들은 10년이 더 걸렸다. 이름 자체는 “처녀의”라는 뜻. 파르테논은 Hyades 성단에 맞춰 지어졌고 (참고로 첨성대가 기원전 7세기정도에 지어짐) 그 시대 많은 신전들이 그랬듯 보물 창고로 사용되기도 했다.

Like many other grand buildings and fortresses around the world, it took a long time and many, MANY craftsmen and sculptors to finish the construction. (The restoration project was launched in 1975, but actual work started in 1983) It’s reported that the materials include marble, bronze, ivory, gold, ebony and cypress wood. According to British traveler and topographer William Martin Leake, he expressed his excitement on the Parthenon by saying “by its united excellences of materials, design and decorations, (the Parthenon) was the most perfect ever executed.” I agree. Because of its literal definition (“of the maidens”) there has been theories and books that the Parthenon was a site for virgin sacrifice, like for example The Parthenon Enigma.

The Parthenon was still under reconstruction when I was there but it should be almost done by now. While I was searching for some information on the more-than-30-year-long restoration progress, I found this article from Reuters. For someone who has always been interested in Greek, Roman history, art and archaeology, the article is short but intense and real. Like the part where an expert says that it’s “almost the same but not exactly the same.” I like that she didn’t say it was exactly the same, or even better than before. Or the part where a marble expert said if he could do this until the day he died, he would be so happy. He’s been working on the project for the past 18 years. Now that’s dedication.

파르테논 신전은 아직도 보수공사를 하고 있긴 하다. 공사 계획이 1975년에 이루어졌고 실질적인 공사 자체는 1985년에 시작했으니 거의 30년에 걸친 대대적인 공사 중. 개인적으로 그리스 로마 신화, 고고학 등에 관심이 많아서 조사를 하면서 로이터에서 쓴 기사를 읽었는데 18년동안 공사에 참여했던 대리석 전문가가 죽는날까지 이것만 하고 가도 행복할것 같다는 말에 괜시리 감동을 받았다.  최근에는 파르테논 신전에서 처녀들이 제물이 되어 희생당했다는 이야기와 책도 나와 논란도 되고 있다고.

There was also a small incident regarding the Parthenon marbles, George Clooney and the London mayor. Korea also has been fighting for its treasures that was looted in various countries including the U.S. and France. Not a laughing matter. Read about Mr. Clooney’s words here.

얼마전 2차 세계대전 중 예술품 전담 특수부대에 대한 실화영화 “모뉴먼츠 맨”의 조지 클루니는 현재 대영박물관에 전시된 파르테논의 문화재에 대해서 언급했다가 런던 시장과도 껄끄러워질 뻔했다. 시장은 클루니에 대한 이야기를 하면서 히틀러를 비교/언급했는데 조지 클루니는 웃으면서 시장이 그저 위스키 몇잔 하시고 한 말씀일거라고 악의적으로 생각하지 않는다고 대답, 그러고는 인터뷰를 마치면서 훔쳐갔건 들고 갔건 그리스 문화재가 영국에 버젓이 있는건 사실이라고 강조했다고.

Of course there are many more monuments around Athens, one of them being the Erechtheion, which is also a Greek temple. I didn’t have much time to prepare myself to these temples and I also hoped I would learn more about them on the spot, but unfortunately, this was not the case. So I had to do what I try not to do now: take as much photos of everything, come back home and search them up. I don’t recommend it, but it works.

The temple is dedicated to the Greek hero Erichthonius. (his daughters were placed in the night sky by Athena and became the Hyades star clusters. The Parthenon is aligned with this particular cluster.) There’s one thing that caught my eye: the draped goddesses supporting the oh so heavy looking columns. Very lovely ladies indeed. This is called the Porch of the Caryatids, or the Porch of the Maidens. One of the six maidens is currently in the British Museum in London (mental check!) while the other five are in the New Acropolis Museum. Yes, the ones on site are replicas.

모두의 눈을 사로잡은 에레크테이온. 그리스긴했지만 나름 출장이었기에 전에 준비할것도 많고 회의도 많고 세미나도 많아서 여행 자체에는 준비를 많이 못한 것이 사실. 가서 배우면 되지 라는 마음으로 갔지만 역시나 무조건 찍고 집에 와서 확인하는 과정을 거쳤다. 에레크테이온에는 기둥을 받쳐들고 있는 6명의 여인들이 있는데 이분들은 모조품. 5개는 아크로폴리스 박물관에 하나는 대영박물관에 있다.

There are two open theaters in Acropolis: the Odeon of Herodes Atticus and the Theatre of Dionysus. The former is better preserved and was used for music concerts. It was built in 161 AD by Greek aristocrat and Roman Senator Herodes Atticus (His full name is Lucius Vibullius Hipparchus Tiberius Claudius Atticus Herodes. What a name.) in memory of his wife. The theater hosts the Athens Festival and has opened up its stage for international stars including Maria Callas, Yanni, Luciano Pavarotti and Elton John.

두개의 극장도 있는데 하나는 헤로데스 아티쿠스 극장, 하나는 디오니소스 극장. 아티쿠스 극장은 서기161년에 정치가 아티쿠스의 지휘하에 세워졌는데 이분의 이름은 무려 Lucius Vibullius Hipparchus Tiberius Claudius Atticus Herodes. 지금도 이곳에서는 해마다 공연이 열린다. 꽤 높은 곳에 있어서 최근 경제사정 때문에 힘들어하는 많은 그리스인들이 찾는 곳이 되기도 했다고.

The Theatre of Dionysus is also an open air theater that was used to hold festivals in honor of the god Dionysus. He’s also known as Bacchus by the Romans and is the god of grape harvest, winemaking and wine. He’s also the god of ritual madness and ecstasy, hence the festivals which later became the major force behind the development of Greek theatre. Restoration is also underway and is scheduled through 2015.

디오니소스 극장은 바카스라고도 알려져 있는 디오니소스 신을 기리기 위해 만들어진 극장. 디오니소스는 와인과 광기의 신으로 그리스의 희극과 비극 등 연극의 기초를 상징하기도 한다. 현재는 공사중.

Lastly, the Areopagus translated “Ares Rock.” It was used as the high Court of Appeal for criminal and civil case, which I thought was appropriate. The word “pagos” means a big piece of rock and it’s spot on. It does look like a huge chunk of rock.

I could not remember the name of the restaurant we went to in Athens, so I found a photo I took and compared it with the Greek alphabet. Οδός Αισχύλου, or Grill house Odos Aischylou (14-16 Aischylou Street, Psyrri Square, Athens, 210 3244 117).

우리가 갔던 식당이름을 기억하지 못해 찍었던 사진과 그리스 글자를 하나하나 대입해가며 찾아냈다. Odos Aischylou.

We were a big group, about 20-25 female reporters. Greek salad, tzatziki and souvlaki. Simple but very filling. The restaurant did seem to be a bit of a touristic spot, but for a simple, touristy meal, it was fine. The area did seem like a touristy restaurant street, so you can also choose others. The interior was dark and dusty, with a hint of a medieval feel to it.

수블라키로 유명하다는 곳이었는데 꽤 관광스러운 느낌. 여행객들이 특히나 많아서 확실한 곳이 없다면 마음 놓고 먹을만한 곳이었다. 그리스 느낌보다는 중세시대의 느낌이 났던 인테리어.

Me with the owner, who insisted on shaking everyone’s hand before we left for the hotel.

굳이 모두와 악수를 하려고 했던 주인아저씨와 사진. 와인을 마셔서 볼이 약간 상기.

• Οδός Αισχύλου/Grill house Odos Aischylou: (210 3244 117,  14-16 Aischylou Street, Psyrri Square, Athens)

All photos by rachelsanghee