Stuttgart: Christmas market

It’s that time of the year again. 

This post was initially written a few years back, but I thought I would share it anyway because the Christmas spirit is always nice to see (and the Christmas markets in Stuttgart are quite similar from previous years.) I also wrote an article about the markets in Europe on The Korea Times and you can read that here.

I’m a bit hesitant when it comes to buying Christmas ornaments and other decorations but it’s always nice to see gazillion Christmasy decor shining about. I also feel very lucky to be able to experience the market not as a visitor, but as a local, which can be two very different things. As a local, I do appreciate the overall fun and chatty atmosphere the market brings. Stuttgart can be a bit too quiet and even boring during the winter, but thanks to the market, it’s fun to go out to see the decorations and all the people. But then, it also does get a bit too busy and so much trash. Wrappers, leftover food, drinks, broken glass everywhere.

크리스마스 마켓의 묘미는 정신없는 크리스마스 장식들. 예쁜건 엄청 많은데 딱히 사고 싶은 건 없는 이상한 마켓. 그래서 나는 아무 생각 없이 거리 이곳저곳을 걸어다니며 구경하는데 시간을 보낸다. 집 바로 앞에 위치하고 있어 여행자가 아닌 시민으로서의 입장을 이야기하자면 일단 장점은 심심할 수 있는 스튜트가르트의 겨울이 조금은 활기차진다는 것. 가끔 나가서 구경도 하고 와인도 마시고. 하지만 단점이라면 저녁에 좀 시끄러워진다는 것과 쓰레기가 엄청 나오는다는 것 정도.

The first Christmas market in Germany dates back to 1310 in Munich, but the one from Vienna, which was called the December market, started in 1294. Most cities hold such markets now all around Germany, including Stuttgart. I live in central Stuttgart, 10 minutes from the central square where everything happens, and this means there are huge buses full of tourists everywhere.

Stuttgart’s market is one of the biggest, if not the biggest, in Germany, and the great thing about it is that the markets and stalls are not just crowded in one area. There are strips of stalls all around the Rathaus and Schlossplatz area, which makes it easier to walk through and also more interesting to just explore and eat your way around. One stall, you can find crepes (you have to wait like 15 minutes in line), the other side, salsiccia (which was really good) or mushrooms with garlic sauce and a little back, you can find good old favorites: french fries, wursts and other yummy things.

크리스마스 마켓에 대한 역사는 사실 그렇게 많지 않다. 독일에서 제일 오래된 마켓은 뮌헨, 1310년에 시작되었지만 옆동네 비엔나에서는 크리스마스 마켓의 원조로 볼 수 있는 12월 마켓이 1294년에 시작되었다. 오스트리아랑 독일이 워낙 관계가 깊고 언어도 거의 같아서 이 마켓을 원조로 본다고.

There tends to be a difference in opinion when it comes to such German markets these days. There are enthusiasts, the disappointed and the doubtful. I’m a bit of an enthusiast, with a bit of questions of my own. Christmas is more of a fun, family event than a religious thing for me, so I enjoy walking along the markets to see what’s what. (My questions are more down-to-earth: where do these vendors go during the summer? Are they the same vendors who come for the Oktoberfest?) And I agree that the toys and decorations tend to be a bit pricy and the fact that they may be just shipped in from a factory in China. But then that’s what you get with Christmas as we know it today.

이곳저곳 뉴스들을 찾아보니 독일 크리스마스 마켓의 상업성에 대한 논란(이라고 할것까지도 없지만)이 주메뉴. 개인적으로 종교적인 차원에서 크리스마스를 즐기는 사람이 아닌지라 내 입장에서는 상업적일 수 밖에 없다고 생각. 마켓에서 살 수 있는 물건들이나 음식, 음료 등 상대적으로 비싼 편이긴 하지만 마켓이고 어찌되었던간에 이제는 하나의 관광상품으로 자리잡은만큼 가격이 조금씩은 오를 수밖에 없다고 생각한다. 이런 “관광지”나 “관광상품”의 순수성 논란은 어디나 비슷한 모양.

Always say yes to chocolate-covered fruits.

There are different types of food you can find, including German, or Swabian to be precise. This is a Hungarian snack called Lángos, which is fried dough in a shape of a little round pizza. You can put various toppings, such as cheese, sausages and even nuts and nutella. The dough is fried right before your eyes, so it’s warm, crunchy, chewy and so good. (I think the saltier toppings work better than the sweeter ones. And with the hot chocolate? Faint. And always say yes to the whip cream.)

헝가리 전통 스낵이지만 간단하고 맛있어서 독일에서도 (프라하에서도) 인기가 많은 랭고스. 다양한 토핑을 올려서 먹을 수 있지만 개인적으로 치즈 올려놓은 랭고스랑 핫초코가 궁합 1등.

As for the other food, I’m not a big fan of the mulled wine, but I am a huge fan of the chocolate covered fruits. Especially the white chocolate-covered strawberries. And the occasional bananas. And the kiwis.

글루바인이라고 불리우는 뜨거운 와인은 개인적으로 좋아하지 않는데 과일꼬치에 초코렛 범벅한 초코렛 과일 꼬치는 엄청 맛있다. 특히 화이트 초코렛 딸기 꼬치.

All photos by rachelsanghee. Dec. 2013, 2014.